SIR, You may well remember when you left England and went to Paris in France, there to carry on that Noble Education you Commenced at home, you entred your ſelf in one of the beſt Academies, and there continued near Two Years and an Half; from whence, after a more than ordinary Improvement in the Liberal Arts and Sciences, and other the Studies and Exerciſes of that Place; your Genius led you to make a farther Progreſs in your Travels; And then you left Paris, and ſet forward by the way of Lyons for Geneve, where after you had paſſed ſome time you reſolved to go for Italy; ſo that taking your leave of Geneve, you came to a little Town called Remille in Savoy, ſeven Leagues from Geneve, where we lay the firſt night; within three Leagues of this Town lies the Lake of Anſi and Town ſo called. The 18th. we came to Chambery, five leagues from Romillie; it is the Principal Town in Savoy, and where the Duke of Savoy formerly kept his Court, where we ſtaid Dinner, and the ſame night lay at Montmillian, two leagues from Chambery, where we took notice of the Fortreſs or Caſtle of Montmillian, It is partly built upon, and partly hewed out of a Rock, eſteemed the ſtrongeſt that belongs to the Duke of Savoy. Lewis the 13th, King of France, lay 13 months before it, in which time (from three Batteries, whereof one was on the further ſide of the River Iſere, the other two on this ſide) he ſhot into the Fort above Ten Thouſand Cannon Bullets, and ſprang Two Mines, all which not anſwering his Expectations, and finding himſelf unable to take it, although he had taken the Town that joyns to the Fort, concludes a Peace and raiſes the Seige. From Montmillian we came to St. Michel, thirteen leagues all along upon the River Iſere, or rather Arche, becauſe it only bears the name of Iſere near to Montmillian, where we lay the 29th.

The Thirtieth we came to dinner to Breamant, five Leagues more, and from thence to Landbourg, where we lay that night, being two leagues from Bramont, ſtill upon the River Are.

Oct. 1. we hired Mules to carry us up the Alps by the way of Mount Senis, and came to Ramaſſe being one league, from thence to the great Croſs two leagues more, which is the higheſt part of the Mountain that you go over, from whence we came to Boſſoline to dinner, which is about 12 miles more, from thence to Villiane eight miles, where we lay that night. And the 2d▪ of Oct. we came to Turin, being about ten or twelve miles from Villiane.

At Turin we ſaw the Duke and Dutcheſs of Savoy, and the Princeſs his Siſter, that ſhoots flying ſo well; we took a view of the Dukes Lodgings, and the fine Gallery of Pictures, the black marble Chappel that had been ſo many years a building, and not finiſhed when we ſaw it, is one of the fineſt things in Turin; we ſaw the Church where they ſay is kept the winding Sheet of our Saviour Chriſt, beſides ſeveral other fine Churches: Eſpecially that of St. Francis, in which there is a moſt noble Altar. One of the ſeven days we ſtayed here, I hapned, in my ramble about the Town to go into a Church, where I heard a great deal of good ſinging by Eunuchs, and very good muſick; which being ended, I found by the Peoples gazing and ſtaring, earneſtly to one part of the Church, that there was ſomething more to come, which was as follows; from a corner of the Church, out of ſome Chappel, or Veſtry, there came a great many people with great wax lights in their hands, after them followed one of the religious men of that place, with a great ſilver Croſs, then followed all the reſt of the religious men ſinging, after them came four Trumpets ſounding, then the Image of the V. Mary followed, being carried upon a frame by four luſty Fellows, like Porters, in blue Frocks: The figure was about the bigneſs of an ordinary woman, carved out of wood, and very richly dreſſed, painted and curled; wearing uppermoſt a long Robe of Cloth of Silver, with a Crown on her head; in her arms ſhe carried a little Image, well carved and finely dreſſed, like a little boy, which repreſented the Saviour, holding between his hands a pair of Beads; as this Image paſſed through the middle alley of the Church, all the people that could come near it touched it with their Beads, and thoſe that could not come near, by reaſon of the preſs, handed their Beads from one to another that they might touch her Garment, from whence undoubtedly they did believe, proceeded great Virtue: After they came out of the Church it was carried in Proceſſion through part of the City, the Trumpets ſounding before, and all people meeting it, or going with it, by kneeling, bowing and croſſing themſelves, paid an adoration to it; to my great Aſtoniſhment.

About five miles from Turin there is a houſe of the Duke of Savoys, called the Venere, very curious for Painting, Pictures and Waterworks; in the Gardens there is ſeveral ſort of Fowl, worth taking notice of.

About a mile from Turin, upon the ſide of a Hill, there is a fine Convent of Capuſin Friers; and a fine houſe called the Valentine, about half a mile from Turin, upon the River Po: It was built by Madam Royall, the Duke of Savoys Mother, and Siſter to Lewis XIII. King of France.

The new Fortifications that the Duke is making about Turin, being all of Brick, conſiſting only of Baſtions and Curtains, are worth your obſervation.

The 9th. of Oct. we left Turin, and went to Villeneufe, a little Garriſon of Fourſcore men, ten miles from Turin, where we dined. The Garriſon obſerving us to be ten or twelve Horſemen in company, would not let above two at a time come into the Town. From this town we went to Aſte ten miles more, it being the laſt town that way belonging to the Duke of Savoy, in Piedmont; it is indifferently well fortified, and hath four Regiments of Souldiers in it.

From Aſte we came the 11th▪ of Oct. to Alexandria, a great Garriſon of the King of Spain in Milonoiſe, twenty miles from Aſte, from whence the ſame night we arrived at Voltaggio, two and twenty miles more, where we were forced by tempeſtuous weather, of Rain, Wind, Thunder and Hail; which did conſiderable damage in thoſe parts, to ſtay till the 13th, and then ſet out for Genoua, where we arrived that night, being twenty miles from Voltaggio.

In Genoua we ſaw a great many Churches, very rich, and their ſtructures very noble, being moſt of them within ſide cruſted with Marble, and Marble Pillars; we ſaw ſeveral Noblemens Pallaces, but in particular, that of Seignior Dalbi, where amongſt other fine things, there is a Looking-glaſs valued at ſixty thouſand Crowns; we ſaw the Doge, and his Pallace, with the Armory, and what elſe was moſt conſiderable.

Tueſday the 16th. we went from Genoua by Sea, in Barks, ſmall Veſſels ſo called, that row with four Oars; and lay the firſt night at a place on the Sea ſhore called Ceſte, being thirty miles. The 17th. we took our Barks again, and went by Sea to Leriſh, thirty Miles more, where we lay the next day, the weather being bad at Sea we quitted our Veſſels, and hired Horſes; and the firſt night lay at Santa Pietra, twenty Miles, and thence to Luca ſixteen Miles, where we lay Friday the 19th. and ſaw ſeveral fine Churches, in particular, that of St. Frediano, where we ſaw the Coffin that Richard the Third, King of England was buried in as he went a Pilgrim to Rome. In St. Auguſtins Church they ſhewed us a place, where a fellow having loſt all his money at Cards, and afterwards having play'd away all the Cloaths he had from his back, in a great rage began to curſe and to ſwear, and taking up a Stone, in that mad fit threw it againſt the Image of the Virgin Mary, from whence immediately the blood guſhed out, upon which the ground opened and ſwallowed him up alive. This ſtory they report to you for a great truth. In another Church they pretend to ſhew you the firſt Croſs or Crucifix that ever was made after the Crucifixion of our Saviour, and tell you the Story thus, that Nicodemus having undertaken the buſineſs, and ſhaping his work in figure like to a man, had finiſhed the Crucifix save only the Head, which ſo puzzled him, that he was not able to go forward with it: In the mean time, being wearied with contriving that part of it, but without ſucceſs, fell aſleep, and after ſome time being awakened from ſleep, he found a Head by him ſent from Heaven, which he fixed to the reſt of his work, and ſo finiſhed the Crucifix▪ It is all beſet with Pearls, Diamonds, and other Precious Stones, wonderful rich: We ſaw the Armory, where they ſay is Arms ſufficient for twenty five thouſand men. The fortifications of the Town, which is very ſtrong, conſiſts of eleven Baſtions, a Lorillion or ear-faſhion, with Half-moons upon the Curtins: there is planted upon every Baſtion ſixteen pieces of Cannon.

The 20th of October we went from Luca to Piſa, ten miles, where we dined: We ſaw there the Dome or Cathedral Church, of which the four great doors are all of Copper, containing the Hiſtory of the four Evangeliſts, repreſented by Figures; hard by this Church, we ſaw in a kind of Tower, or ſuch like place, where all the Children are baptized, and where there is the fineſt Echo that ever was heard, and in it a Pulpit of Marble that came from Armenia, ſo finely carved that the value of it is ineſtimable. Hard by this you ſee the Leaning Tower, ſo built, to the admiration of all that ſee it, for it hangs over ſo much, that one would think it muſt needs ſall, and yet it is believed to ſtand as ſtrong as if it had been built upright; ſo great was the Ingenuity of the Architect. Near the great Church are the Cloyſters to be ſeen, where upon the walls is painted the Hiſtory of the Bible: And in the middle of the Cloyſters, upon the right and left hand, there are two little ſquare Courts, all of holy Earth, they ſay brought from Jeruſalem, wherein if you interr a body, all ſhall conſume to the Bones in four and twenty hours time.

From Piſa the ſame day we went to Leghorne, where the only thing worth taking notice of is the Mould, where the Shipping rides ſafe: The Town is fortified with Baſtions and large Ditches. We went out of curioſity and ſaw the Jews Synagogue in the time of their Devotions.

Tueſday the 23d of October we went from Leghorne and came again to Piſa, where we dined, and after dinner went and ſaw the Phyſickgarden of the Great Duke of Florence, in which there is a Gallery furniſhed with abundance of Curioſities; whereof one that I took notice of was the Scull of a Man or Woman, with a great piece of Coral growing to it; and alſo a ſmall Anchor with ſeveral pieces of Coral naturally fixed to it; both which things were ſo found in the Sea. We went the ſame night to la Scala, a great Inn ſo called, where we lay, being thirty ſix miles from Leghorne, and half way between Piſa and Florence.

The next day being the 24th of October, we arriv'd at Florence, 20 miles from la Scala, where we ſaw the Chappel of St. Laurence, eſteemed the fineſt of the whole World, for the inſide of it is all Precious Stones, and the Arms of every City belonging to the Great Duke are all of Precious ſtone inlaid, round about the Chappel; within ſide there is likewiſe the Statues of all the great Dukes cut out in marble. Firſt Francis, then Coſmus the I. and Ferdinandus I. Coſmus II. Ferdinandus II. and Coſmus at preſent, Third of the name, and Sixth great Duke. From this Chappel we went to the Dome or Cathedral Church, with the Tower by it, whereof all the outſide is finely wrought with Marble of divers Colours; we ſaw the great Dukes Pallace and Gardens, in which there is a great many fine Waterworks: The fineſt thing in Florence is the Gallery of rich Cabinets, and the Chamber where there is all ſort of curious Arms; there is a long barrel of a Gun all of maſſy Gold, and ſeveral other great curioſities; we ſaw the Dukes Armory, the wild Beaſts, and ſome fine houſes out of Town, where there is fine Painting and Waterworks, chiefly in that of the great Dukes, called Pratilin, ſix Miles from Florence, we ſaw beſides abundance of fine Churches.

November the Firſt we went from Florence to Pongebouce 22 miles where we lay. The next day we came to Dinner to Siena, 16 miles: It is a Town belonging to the Great Duke, almoſt as big as Florence, where we ſaw the Great Church, whereof the Pavement is the fineſt in Chriſtendom; and the Library with its Pavement, deſerves to be taken notice of: From hence we went to Torriniere 18 miles where we lay. The next day, being the 3d of November, we lay at Aquapendente 29 miles, from whence we came, and dined, the next day being Sunday at Montefiatſco, Fifteen miles, where in a little old Church, under ground, we ſaw the Tomb of a German Biſhop, who, they ſay, killed himſelf with drinking to exceſs the Wine of that place: The ſtory runs thus, That the Biſhop travelling with his retinue to Rome, ſent one of his Servants before upon the Road to find out the beſt Wine, with a ſtrict Command to write EST upon the Sign, where the Wine was beſt; which accordingly he did, and at the firſt place where he found the Wine to be good writ EST, which, when the Biſhop ſaw, concluding the Wine to be very good he ſtopped, and with all his Company went in and remained there till he had had his fill of the Wine; then he went forward, his Servant the Purveyor, being ſtill before to find out the next place of good Wine, which appeared to the Biſhop before he had travelled much farther, by a double aſſurance of EST, EST, which the Servant had marked upon the Sign; There the Biſhop ſtayed longer than he had done at the firſt place of EST, finding the Wine to be much better. But at length, in hopes to gratifie his Appetite with a more delicious Wine than what he had met with, goes forward on his Journey to Rome, his Servant going ſtill before with the ſame Command of providing ſtill the beſt Wine with the Old Signal of EST; But before he had travelled far he comes to this fatal place of Montefiaſco, where the Wine was ſo much better than any he had yet met with in his way to Rome, that he thought it deſerved the triple ſignal of EST, EST, EST, which accordingly was put upon the Sign. The Biſhop being not far behind, ſoon arrived at this Inchanted Caſtle of Bacchus, where eſpying the Signal, immediately made an halt, and with all his Company entred the place, where he found the entertainment ſo ſweet, and the Wine ſo bewitching, that he was not able to leave the place till his life had left him, and then was carried out dead to his Grave, which was hard by in the Vault of a little Church, with a large Stone upon it, and this Epitaph or Inſcription writ by the Purvoyer his man, in honour of his Maſter.

From this place we went to Viterbo, eight miles more, where we lay; it is a very pretty town, and in moſt of the ſtreets thereof there is fine Fountains. From hence we went the next day to Capreole, twelve miles more, where there is a fine houſe of the Duke of Parma, but going to ruine, here we dined and after Dinner went to Monte Roſſa, ten miles, where we lay; from whence the next day being Tueſday the 6th. of November, we came to Rome, two and twenty miles more.

The Eighth of November we took our Jonrney for Naples, and came the firſt night to Veletre, twenty miles from Rome, where we ſaw the fine Pallace and Garden of Cardinal Ginetto. From thence the next day we went to Piperno thirty miles. The next day being Saturday▪ the 10th. of November we came to Fundi, which is the better half way betwixt Rome and Naples. From this place we came the next day, being Sunday, to Mola: Where in a great Orange Garden we ſaw the Tomb and Grotto of Cicero, that famous Orator. Hard by Mola lies Caeta, where there is to be ſeen a Rock, which they ſay cleft aſunder at the time of the Crucifixion of our bleſſed Saviour. From Mola we came to St. Agothas; and from thence on Monday night, the 12th inſtant, we arrived at Naples, which is ſome 32 miles from St. Agothas, where we ſaw ſeveral fine Churches; but in that of St. Claires there is four fine Pillars, which they do aſſert were brought from the Temple of Solomon at Jeruſalem. At another Church we ſaw the Buſto's, or pieces of Statues, being the remainder of two Idols called by the names of Caſtor and Pollux, they were formerly entire, and worſhipped as Gods by the Heatheniſh people, but St. Paul paſſing by that way as he was carried a priſoner to Rome, it is ſaid that theſe Idols fell down and broke to pieces, and in their fall the Devil was perceived to go from them; who whilſt they were whole, ſerved them for a voice, and did uſually ſpeak to thoſe that worſhipped them. The Heads of theſe Idols they ſay ſome certain Prince has in keeping, for a great curioſity. From hence we went to the Charter-houſe, a Convent of Religious men; the building is very fine, ſeated upon a high hill, near the City, cloſe to the Caſtle of St. Elmo, from whence you have the beſt ſight of Naples, and a proſpect of the Mediterranean Sea, which is believed to be the beſt in Europe.

Upon Wedneſday we hired Horſes and rid out of Town, paſſing through the Grotto of Pauſilinus, which Laſſel in his Voyage of Italy makes mention of. It is near a mile in length, cut, or rather bored through a great Rocky hill, by the Emperour Lucullus. It is now uſed as a great high way leading into Naples; wherein two Coaches or Carts may meet and paſs by each other eaſily, though the paſſage for near three parts of the way be very dark, without any light at all, except the light of a ſmall Lamp that hangs in a little Chappel dedicated to the Virgin Mary, in the middle of the paſſage, upon the right hand, going into the City. And becauſe there may be danger in meeting and running againſt one another in the dark, part of the way, when you hear any noiſe of Horſe or Coach, or the like, which you may eaſily do at a great diſtance, (for the leaſt thing in that Concavity makes a great noiſe) then you uſe theſe words, ſpeaking out aloud, (a la Montagna, & a la Marina) which ſignifies, Which way are you to go, either to that ſide which is next the Mountain, or to that next the Sea? by which one avoids the diſaſters that might happen by meeting in the dark. From this Grotto, or high way, we came to the place called Grotto delcane, or the Dogs Grotto: It is a little place concaved or hollowed in the ſide of a little hill, hard by a Lake, or great pond of water; in which place a man may ſtand upright, and go three or four ſteps in length and breadth; here we had a Dog brought us, by a man that lives hard by, and that makes it his buſineſs for gain to ſhew the experiment to ſtrangers; he takes his Dog, and holds down his head within a Foot of the ground, for higher it is believed the Sulphurous Vapours do not mount, as one may obſerve by a kind of green colour that ſtains the ſides of the place, about a foot high from the Surface of the ground, and not higher; and before you can count a hundred, if you count not too faſt, the Dog begins to ſtagger and reel, (the man then letting him looſe) he ſoon falls down, and ſtruggling for life, dies away immediately; then the man ſpeedily takes him out, and waſhing him a little in the water of the Lake hard by, he preſently recovers; we tryed, for our better ſatisfaction, the experiment upon one of our own Dogs, and kept him in the ſaid Grotto it may be half a minute, or ſome ſuch ſmall matter of time longer than the firſt Dog, but too long to recover him, for all our waſhing, and whatever elſe we could do, could not bring him to life again.

About a mile from this venemous Grotto is the burning Mountains called by the name of Sulpha terra, the principal matter that burns is Brimſtone, mixed with other Minerals: We were as near the burning part of it as we durſt go, for the ſmoke and fire was ſometimes ready to choak us. But which was moſt to be admired, was to ſee fire and ſmoke come furiouſly out, if you thruſt but a ſtick into that levelled part of the Mountain on which we walked, the hilly part thereof being blown up and conſumed with burning ſome time before.

From hence we went to Puzzeolo, a little Town near the Sea-ſide, where we ſaw the Academy or School of Virgil: and by this the Temple of Neptune: but there is nothing remaining of either but old Walls, and the ruins thereof. From hence we took a Boat and went by Sea to ſee the Sybillas Grotto, but by the way they gave us an account of a Mountain we ſaw hard by, called Monta Nova, that about 134 years ago there was a curious Plain where the Mountain now ſtands, and in it a little Town, whereof the people were grown to that exceſs of debauchery and looſeneſs of life, that in one nights time they were all covered with this Mountain, which they believe to be the Judgment of God upon the wickedneſs of the place. Others there are that ſay this Mountain was by the violent diſorder of combuſtible matter burning under ground, blown up from Sulpha terra before mentioned, and carried to that place where it now ſtands, which is two miles or thereabouts. Within half a mile of this Mountain you ſee the Grotto of Sybilla, and the Lake Avernus, or Lake of Hell; at the farther ſide of which is the Temple of Apollo. About half a mile from the Grotto Sybilla are the Hot Baths: and very near to this place we ſaw the Tomb of Agripina, the mother of Nero; by which ſtands the Ruins of the Temple of Venus and Diana: And from hence you may ſee that place where Nero cauſed his Mother to be opened, whereof nothing remains but the ruins, like unto a Rock in the Sea, ſome fourſcore or a hundred paces from the ſhore. We had not gone far from the Seaſide, but going over a little Hill we came into the ruins of what had been formerly a very fine ſtreet, in which was kept the Saturdays Market of that great and antient Town called by the name of Baiae: Near the end of which ſtreet, in a Vault or Cave there are ſeveral hollows or niches in the Walls, where formerly in Urues they uſed to keep the Aſhes of the dead. Hard by this place you ſee the Elyſian Fields, and the Dead Sea, where Charon the Ferry-man uſed to ply; and where formerly Nero's Army lay imbarqued. And not far from hence we ſaw what ſome call Piſcina mirabilis, which undoubtedly had been built for ſome great end. It is a very lofty building under ground, ſupported by forty huge Pillars of Stone, or thereabouts; the plaiſtering of the Walls laid on about as thick as a Crown-piece, of ſo excellent a compoſition, (whereof they ſay whites of Eggs, which I refer to the Reader, was part of the Compound) is ſo very hard, that the Rock it ſelf cannot be harder. Here it is they ſay Nero kept freſh water for the uſe of his Navy, that lay then in the Dead Sea. From this place we went and ſaw the Cento Camarelle, or little rooms, very ſtrangely contrived to keep Slaves and Priſoners in.

From hence we took our Boat again, and returned to Puzzeolo, where one may ſee the beginning of a Bridge, carried on at leaſt a mile or two into the Sea; it is reported to be the unadviſed enterpriſe of the Emperour Caligula, who thought to have made it over an arm of the Sea three or four miles long. The ſame night we returned to Naples, and the next day being Thurſday, we ſaw the Sepulchres of Virgil, and of Sanazzaro. Upon Friday we took Horſes and went to the burning Mountain of Veſuvio, ſome ſeven miles from Naples Eaſtward. The Heart or Subſtance of the Mountain is conſumed by conſtant burnings, and frequent Eruptions; ſo that it may be more properly called the Shell of a Mountain, whoſe Subſtance is loſt▪ or not unlike unto a Cup, whoſe brim or brink, being near half a mile in circumference, one may in any place lean over, and look down into the Concavity thereof, which is very deep, and at the bottom perceive very well a young Hill growing up, or rather forced up by ſome Combuſtible Matter underneath: This little Hill or Heap, which ſwells from the bottom, grows every year bigger and bigger, and yet one may perceive it ſmoak conſtantly, which 'tis believed it would not do if it did not burn. All the way up and down this Mountain, you cannot avoid going up to the Knees in Aſhes. There is a Bed or Channel that lies dry from the top of the Mountain down to the Sea-ſide, which, they ſay, was made by a burning liquid matter, which the Mountain ſpued up ſo faſt, and with that violence, that it forced its way there, and like an impetuous River run burning down a great way into the Sea, whereof nothing remains now but that Bed or Channel, which has ever ſince continued dry: four or five miles round▪ this Mountain you ſee a hard rocky Cinder, which in Eruptions are thrown ſo far at leaſt, up and down the Country to the great damage of the Inhabitants. In the year 1631. was the laſt great Eruption, in which they ſay there was no leſs than two thouſand people killed and hurt.

Upon Saturday we took a view of Naples again, and the next morning left that place, in order to our return again to Rome, where we arrived the 22d of November, but took Freſcata in our way, which is about 12 miles from Rome, where we ſaw the Palace of Monte Dragone, and Aldobrandina, in theſe we ſaw many fine Waterworks, among which the moſt conſiderable was that of the Organs. The Caſcade or fall of Water was ſo great and ſo violent, that in the very fall it brought wind enough with it to fill the Organ Pipes, which were very artificially placed in a little Houſe cloſe to the Caſcade for that purpoſe, and a Wheel which the Water turned round, having ſtops ſo conveniently placed on it as to touch the Keys in going about, which cauſed it to play any tune as they ſhould think fit who had the ordering of it, and as loud almoſt as you hear in any Church; we ſaw likewiſe the Figure of a Centaur with his Horn, which by the help of the water he wound very loud; there was likewiſe a Satyr playing upon Pipes, and the chirping and ſinging of Birds very delightful, and all performed by the help of the Water; but which was more aſtoniſhing than all this, was the great Grotto, or great Waterwork in form of a Grotto, placed directly againſt the back part of the Houſe: The coming forth of the Water is like unto Thunder, and then falls to the ground like Hail, Rain and Miſt; Before we took our leaves of this place, we ſaw a fine Room, in which were ſeveral Figures, playing upon divers Inſtruments, repreſenting the Muſes, and underneath it was the Wind Treaſury, which we diſcovered by their opening to us two or three holes about two Inches diameter made in the Floor of the ſaid Room, from whence the wind proceeded with ſo much ſtrength, as to bear up a Ball of Copper or Braſs hovering very high over the hole.

Thurſday the 29th of November being returned to Rome, we went and ſaw St. Peter's Church and the Pope's Lodgings, where we took notice of three or four Rooms finely painted by Michael Angelo; the Gallery, Gardens, and Waterworks are worth taking notice of.

Upon Saturday the 1ſt of December we went to the Villa Burgheſe, belonging to a Prince that bears the ſame name, where we ſaw abundance of fine Statues, whereof the Gladiator and Apollo taking hold of Daphne are moſt worth remark: Theſe two laſt Figures being one intire piece of White Marble, repreſenting Apollo's purſuit of Daphne to raviſh her, when ſhe changes into a Tree, was done by Seignior Bernin; the Painting is very good; the fine Gardens and the variety of Waterworks is worth ſeeing: There is a Sea-Horſe-Head, and an Elephants Head worth taking notice of.

Sunday, the 20 of December, we went to St. Paul's Church, about a mile and an half out of Rome, where we ſaw the Crucifix, that, they ſay, ſpoke to St. Briget.

Munday we ſaw Prince Pamphilio his Palace, one of the Popes Nephews, about a mile out of Town.

Tueſday we went from St. Peter's Church to the Inquiſition, whoſe building we ſaw, but they would not permit us to go into the Priſons: From hence we went to the Church of St. Oneſtrio, where the body of Torquatus Taſſus the Italian Poet lies Interred; we ſaw his Study, ſome of his own Manuſcript, the Cup he uſually drunk out of, and the Room he died in, in which there is now a fine Library.

From this place we went to the Queen of Swedens Palace, where there is moſt excellent pieces of Painting done by the beſt hands, as Titio, Bonoretta, Carraggio and others.

From thence we went to Farneſi's Palace, where we ſaw that Incomparable Maſterpiece that was brought from Rhodes, conſiſting of Seven Figures, to wit, a Bull, a Dog, Three Men and Two Women; all theſe Seven Figures as big as the Life, are cut out of one intire piece of Marble, and do all naturally joyn in ſome part or other. The Figures do repreſent the Hiſtory of Licus, King of Thebes, who took to Wife Anthiops, Daughter of Nycteus, King of Ethiopia, whom Jupiter defiled, putting on the form of a Satyr, whereupon Licus put her away and married Dirce, who perſwaded the King to keep Antiope cloſe Priſoner, leſt ſhe ſhould return into his favour again, which accordingly was done; but Jupiter, out of compaſſion, ſoon releaſed her, and then ſhe fled into the Mountains, where ſhe was delivered to two Sons, Amphion and Zetus, who after they came to underſtand the injury done to their Mother by Licus and Dirce, they took Dirce and by the Hair of the Head tyed her to the Horns of a mad Bull, from which cruelty, after ſhe had ſuffered a long time, by the clemency of the Gods ſhe was delivered; but Licus they killed: Whereupon Appolonius and Lauriſcus, two of the moſt famous Sculptures of that age, willing to tranſmit this Tragical Story to poſterity, made this piece, as it is likewiſe reported by Pliny in his 36th Book and Chap. 5. which afterwards amongſt other Antiquities was brought from Rhodes to Rome by Aſſinios Pollion, moſt famous in the time of Auguſtus, and kept in the Baths of Antonius, Pius, Caracallus, the Emperour, under Mount Aventin, and in the reign of Pope Paul the Third, named Farneſe, was found in the Ruins of thoſe Baths, and by him put into order, and placed where you now ſee it.

Over againſt this in a Little Palace of Seignior Pighinis, there is two of the fineſt Statues of Marble that is to be ſeen in Rome, the one is Meleagre, or as ſome ſay Adonis, the other is a Venus.

Wedneſday we ſaw the Palace of Montalto, where there are a great many fine Statues and curious Waterworks, in a moſt ſpacious and fine Garden. From hence we went to Ludoviſio's great Garden, where in one Apartment we ſaw a Bed of ineſtimable value; it was all beſet with Precious Stones, and by this Bed, in a large Box, we ſaw a petrified man.

Thurſday we ſaw the Palace of Cardinal Spada, and the Hoſpital where all the Pilgrims that come to Rome are entertained for three days.

Saturdry we ſaw Prince Pallaſtrino's Palace, and upon Sunday we went to Santa Croce in Jeruſalem, one of the ſeven Churches, where they pretend to have a great many Relicks, as the Sponge that they offered to our Saviour when he was upon the Croſs, ſome of the Thorns that he was Crowned with, one of the Nails that faſtned him to the Croſs, and many other reliques. Afterwards we went to the Church of St. John Latteran, which is eſteemed the fineſt in Rome, next to St. Peters, and where they pretend to have the moſt reliques; hard by this is the Church of St. John in fonte, where Infidels and others that turn to the Church of Rome are baptized.

Monday the 10th. we ſaw Cardinal Ghiſi's Pallace, where there is a moſt admirable collection of Pictures, and the richeſt Portiers or Door hangings that are in Rome, there was a very rich bed of wh te Sattin, painted they ſay, with the Juice of Flowers, ſo curiouſly that it took up five years time to do it in:

Tueſday, we ſaw the Effigies of the King of France on Horſeback, cut out of one intire piece of pure white marble, by Cavalier Beruin; it was not then quite finiſhed, yet it ſeemed to challenge the fineſt thing of that nature that ever was made: It was to be ſent into France, ſo ſoon as it ſhould be finiſhed.

Wedneſday, we ſaw the Cupola of St. Peters, and went into the Ball which is near ſeven Foot Diameter, and will hold ten or twelve men at a time completely.

The Church of St. Peter with the portico and thickneſs of the walls is one Thouſand and Fifty eight Palmes in Length.

The breadth of the Church in that part that makes the Croſs is ſix hundred and ſeventy Palmes.

From the Pavement to the twelve Apoſtles is two hundred and twelve Palmes high.

The Cupola is one hundred and ninety Palms diameter, and ſix hundred and fifty two from the Pavement to the Croſs, that is fixed upon the top of the Cupola.

The Lanthorn of the Cupola, and the great Altar in the middle of the Croſs of the Church do meaſure alike, in height one hundred twenty ſix Palms and a half.

The Thurſday following, we went and ſaw the little Pallace of Cardinal Ghiſi, where there is a very pretty Armory, and many natural Curioſities, amongſt the reſt the Cockatrices were worth remark: His fine Garden, and thoſe many Artifices by water, from which it is almoſt impoſſible to avoid being wet, unleſs the Gardiner be your Friend, were all very well worth our ſight.

Friday the 14th. we were introduced by the French Ambaſſador, and admitted to the honour of kiſſing the Popes toe.

Saturday, we ſaw the Prince Burgeſe's Pallace which is eſteemed the fineſt in Rome.

Sunday, we went to the Church of St. Sebaſtian about three miles out of Rome▪ it is one of the ſeven Churches, and where they tell you our Saviour met St. Paul, and converſed with him, and left his Foot-ſteps for a mark thereof, if you can believe as the Church of Rome believes; This rencounter of our Saviour with St. Paul was when he made his eſcape from Rome; beſides the Footſteps of our Saviour, they ſhow you under the Church, where in the times of Perſecution they uſed to hide the Chriſtians, and bury thoſe that they found dead, and where the bodies of St. Peter and St. Paul are reported to be firſt interred.

Monday 17th. we began with the new Church of St. Nichola Tolentino, which is well adorned with good Painting and a fine Altar.

From hence we went to Porta Salaire, or Collina, through which Hannibal and Bremus King of the Galls entered, when they came to Rome; a little within this Gate you ſee the place where they uſed to inter the Veſtal Nymphs. We went forward and came to Porta Pia, ſo called, from Pius Quartus Pope of Rome, in whoſe time it was built, the workmanſhip was Michael Angelo Boneretta's, the pretty Sabines that were raviſhed by the Romans, came in at this Gate.

From this Gate we went to the Temple of Sta. Agneſe, it is about a mile beyond the Walls of the City, where there is a great many fine Marble Pillars very antique, and Candleſticks taken from the Temple of Bacchus, but the four Porphery Pillars that bore up the great Altar are moſt worth remark.

Near to this you ſee the place they call Roma Subterranea, you go under ground and are conducted into ſeveral narrow paſſages on the right and left hand, you may ſee ſeveral niches and concavities in which were Skulls, and other Bones of Saints and Martyrs which in the times of Perſecution fled thither and died there, and were buried, as our Author reported.

Near to this place is the Church of St. Conſtanza, heretofore the Temple of Bacchus, in which you may ſee that Porphery Sepulcher either of Bacchus, or of Conſtanza, as is believed; it may challenge the whole world for a Curioſity.

From hence we went to the Church of St. Victoire, where you may ſee the fine Statue of St. Terraiſe, made by Cavalier Beruin, near to this is that of St. Suſanna, where the Painting is not much amiſs.

From hence you may ſee the Tower or Church of St. Bernard, their Garden was heretofore a Theatre, oppoſite to which are the Baths of the Emperour Diocleſian, by which you may take notice of eight great Marble Pillars which bore up the Ruines of a moſt noble arched Fabrick now partly converted to a Church.

Not far from hence there is a little Church called Pudantiene, where you may ſee that lovely Chappel of Cajeton, and in it admire that incomparable Altar-piece, which repreſents the birth of our Saviour and the three Kings coming to worſhip him, made by Petrus Oliverus Romanus; the Moſaick work is worth taking notice of, beſides the fine Statutes.

Hard by this little Church you may take notice of the Bath of Agripina, the Mother of Nero, now in the Ruins.

From hence we went and ſaw the pretty Church of St. Martin, upon Mount Eſquelyn, built upon the ruined Baths of Titus Veſpaſius: At the end of this Church was the Tower of Nero, upon which he ſat playing on a Harp whilſt the City of Rome was all in a flame of Fire.

From hence we went to the Church of St. Peter in Vincoli, where there is a very fine Statue of Moſes; and they ſay the laſt thing that was done by Michael Angelo. I ſhould have told you that it was between Porta Salaire and Porta Pia, about three miles from Rome, where Nero the Emperour killed himſelf, to prevent a moſt ſhameful death that was prepared for him.

Tueſday we went about three miles out of Rome to a place called the Three Fountains, where there is three little Churches, one of them called St. Athanaſius, another St. Bernard; where they ſay lies abundance of the Saints bones: and the third is called the Three Fountains, where they report St. Paul was beheaded; and at the cutting of it off, they ſay the Head gave three leaps, at each of which there broke out immediately a Fountain of Water: And which was more wonderful, that the Water of each Fountain ſhould have a different taſte from the other; the firſt to taſte like Wine, the ſecond like Milk, and the third ſomething near the taſte of common Water; but I found no difference in them but that they all taſted like other waters, but it may be it was becauſe there was wanting in me a Romiſh Faith. You may likewiſe ſee the Marble Pillar, to which he was bound, as they ſay, when he was executed. In returning to Rome we ſaw St. Pauls Church again, and the Crucifix that they ſay ſpoke to St. Brigid, where in the Sacriſtie there are very fine Pictures done by Lanfranck.

In the wall of the City you may ſee the fine Piramid, or, as ſome ſay, the Sepulchre of Caius Ceſtius; others ſay it is the Sepulchre of Remus. It was finiſhed in 330 days, which was but a very ſhort time for ſo great a work.

Thurſday after dinner we ſaw the Pallace of Prince Juſtiniano, where there is fine Statues and Painting. Then we went and ſaw the Popes gardens at Monte Cavallo.

Friday, near the Church of St. Sebaſtian, which is ſome three or four miles out of Rome, we ſaw the Ruins of the Pretorial Camp, or the place of Guard to the Emperour Diocleſian: Near to this you may ſee the little Heatheniſh Temple, that was erected in deriſion of Hannibal, for being forced to retreat without taking Rome. You ſee alſo not far from hence the Circle of Caracallo from whence was taken the oblique that now ſtands in the middle of the Piazza Navona; from this place we went to the Fountain of the Nymph Aegeria, which they ſay was built 800 years before our Saviours time: Returning to Rome again, we went through the Porto Lattin, juſt by which we ſaw a little Chappel, where they ſay St. John the Evangeliſt was put to death, by being put into a Cauldron of boyling Oyl. I ſhould have taken notice of Capo di Bove, at the beginning of this days Journey, it lying in the way, the remains of it is a great Tower partly demoliſhed, where the Sepulchre of Matella wife to rich Craſſus, daughter to Q. Metalla, ſurnamed Cretico, taken for having ſubdued the Cretes, now remains.

Saturday, we went to Campidoglio, where you may ſee erected the Trophies of the Emperour Trajan when he returned to Rome, victorious over the Tranſilvanians. In the middle Court you ſee the copper Horſe, vulgarly called the Horſe of Conſtantine the Emperour: In the Court called Conſervatori, you may take notice of the Head of the Emperour Domitian, the Head and an Arm of the Emperour Commodus, the Tomb of Mamea the Mother of Alexander Severus, with many other figures very ancient. The Apartments above Stairs are full of old Statues and fine Painting, the Idol of Hercules, and the figure of a Wolf, with Romulus and Remus hanging at the Dugs of it, are very antique and worth remark, they are of Copper.

From hence we went to Mount Capitolin, hard by which you may ſee three fine Pillars that remain of the Temple of Jupiter; on the top of which Pillars you may take notice of a Stone with fine old carving on it, of thoſe things which do denote the uſe and intent of the ſtructure; for by the Bullocks Head and Horns dreſſed with Flowers, the Ax, the Sacrificers Knife, and Baſon to receive the Blood, and other things of this nature, one may eaſily believe the report, that it is the remains of the Temple of Jupiter, where they uſed to Sacrifice to that Deity. Near to this you ſee the Temple of Concord: And not far from hence that fine ancient Pillar, upon which was ſet the Statue of Domitian the Emperour; a little farther we ſaw the Dungeon where the Romans formerly uſed to impriſon the moſt notorious Malefactors, amongſt the reſt St. Peter and St. Paul are ſaid to have been kept here; they ſhewed us a Pillar to which their Chains were faſtned, and cloſe by it a little Fountain wherein, they ſay, the Goaler and his Family were baptized after they were converted to the Chriſtian Faith. In this place ſtands now a little Church dedicated to St. Joſeph, it is at the foot of that great deſcent of Marble Steps where the Romans uſed formerly to throw down the Criminals that were condemned to die: By this you may ſee the Triumphal Arch of the Emperour Septimus Severus, erected againſt his return from the Conqueſt of the Partheans, near to this is the Church of St. Martin, where you may ſee his ſtately Sepulchre in a Vault, and his fine Image of Marble upon the great Altar; they likewiſe pretend to ſhew you where his Body was found. A little way from hence is the Church of St. Francis, and in it that noble Sepulchre, erected to his memory by Pope Innocent the tenth, and another incomparable piece of Petrus Oliverus, which repreſents the entry of Pope Gregory the 11th into Rome when he came from Avignion: Behind this Church formerly ſtood the Temple of the Sun and Moon; and near to this you ſee the Ruins of the Temple of Peace, built by Titus Veſpaſius the Emperour; over againſt this Temple are the Gardens of Farneſe, in which there is a fine ancient Statue of Agripina: This place was heretofore the Palace of Caeſar, begun by Auguſtus Caeſar upon Mount Palatin.

Wedneſday, the 2d of January, we paſſed by the Church of St. Maria Maggiore, which ſtands upon Mount Eſquilino, and came to the little Church of St. Bibian, where you may ſee her fine Statue, made by Cavalier Bernin; there is good Painting in Freſco, done by Dietio Cortone; they ſhew you a little Pillar of Porphery, to which they ſay St. Bibian was tied when ſhe was martyrized.

Near to Porta Paleſtina is the Temple of Bacchus, built by Auguſtus Caeſar, to the honour of his two Nephews, Cajus and Liſius; it is now vulgarly called Galuſia. From hence we went and ſaw Sancta Croce, which is one of the Seven Churches, the Pillars thereof were taken out of the Temple of Venus and Cupidon, which Temple was ruined by the Emperour Conſtantine; behind the great Altar is the ſtory of St. Helena, mother of Conſtantine, ſeaching for the Croſs of our Saviour, done in Freſco by Peruſino the Maſter of Raphael Ʋrbin. From hence we went to the Temple of the Emperour Claudins, now called St. Stephens Church; it is built round, and ſupported by abundance of fine Pillars; the Hiſtory of the perſecutions of the Chriſtians by the heatheniſh Emperours, from the time of our Saviour to Conſtantine the firſt Chriſtian Emperour, is painted round the Church.

Saturday we went again to the Campadoglio, where in a little Court going up Stairs, one may take notice of four ſeveral pieces Carved in Stone, which repreſent the coming of Marc. Aurel. in triumph to Rome. Above Stairs take notice of the great Hall painted in Freſco by Joſeph Darpin; in the next Room is the Statue of Anthonio Columne; and in the next to this the Head of Junius Brutus that overcame the Tarquins, the Head of Mithridate an eminent Captain againſt the Romans. In another room we ſaw the Head of Fabritius a brave Soldier againſt the Pirots, and the Head of Simon that betrayed Troy. In another Room we ſaw a fine Statue of a Cybilla; and in the other Apartments we ſaw a fine old Statue of a Magician, and the Statue of Marios the great Roman Conſul, and the Nurſe of Nero the Emperour, a fine figure. Near to the Triumphal Arch of Septimus Severus there remains three Pillars of the Temple that Romulus built to Jupiter, occaſioned by a Vow Romulus had made when his Army was routed by the Sabins, that if he ſhould be able to rally his Army, and defeat the Enemy, he would build a Temple and dedicate it to Jupiter, which accordingly was done, and his Vow performed.

Not far from hence is the Temple of Anthonin and Fauſtin, now called the Church of St. Laurence, where there is a fine Altar-piece, done by Pietro Cortono: Hard by this is the Temple of Romulus and Remus, now the Church of St. Come and Damian. And not far from hence we ſaw the Triumphal Arch of Titus Veſpaſian, erected upon the taking of Rome: Not far from this you may ſee the Triumphal Arch of Conſtantine, by ſome called that of Trajans, becauſe moſt of the beſt Figures carved in Stone, and what elſe is there moſt worth your notice was brought from the Triumphal Arch of Trajan, to whoſe honour it was built after he had ſubdued the Tyrant Maxanae: Near to this you may ſee the Ruins of the Amphitheatre, where St. Igneas, a Diſciple of St. Peters, in the raign of Trajan, was devoured by Lyons. We went afterwards a little farther, and ſaw the nine Vaults where the water for the uſe of the Amphitheatre, as alſo for the Baths of Titus Veſpaſian was preſerved; ſome ſay they were firſt made to keep water in for the uſe of Nero's Gardens. From hence we went to the little Triumphal Arch of Septimus Severus in Forobauno, erected by the Merchants and Goldſmiths, upon Stones where one may ſee carved the Ax, the head of the Victim, and ſeveral other things that were made uſe of in their Sacrifices to the Heatheniſh Gods. Hard by this ſtands an Antick-piece of ſquare Building, which has on every ſide a great Door built Arch-faſhion, and twelve Niches, formerly, they ſay, there was fourteen ſuch Buildings which divided the City of Rome into ſo many parts, to each of which there was a Governour▪ They ſay moreover, that in the reign of Auguſtus Caeſar they uſed to celebrate the Feaſts of Competallini in thoſe places. Firſt inſtituted by Servius Tullius, in honour of their Domeſtick Deities. Near to the Rotonda, which is not far from hence, there remains Eleven Fine Pillars of Marble of the Temple of Mars, built by Marc. Aurel. after he had obtained the victory againſt the Moravies; heretofore it was called Marcoman. From hence we went to the Palace of Fierevante, where by the way we ſaw the Statue of Antonia, Grandmother to Agrippina; and in the Palace Garden there is a Fine Figure of Eſculapius, the Sepulchre of Auguſtus, and the Vault where all his Family lye interred, heretofore called the Mauſol.

Monday we went and took a view of Trajans Colomn, eſteemed one of the fineſt pieces of Antiquity the World affords; all the moſt memorable and moſt noble exploits of his Life are lively repreſented by incomparable Carving, quite round the Pillar, from the top to the pedeſtal; the Model of which has been lately taken by the French King.

From hence we went to Mont. Avantin, where we ſaw the Church and Convent of St. Dominick's Order, it was heretofore the Temple of Juno; there is one thing remarkable in it, a round Marble Stone, which they ſay the Devil threw at St. Dominico when he was at prayers. Near to this is the Church of St. Alexis, heretofore the Temple of Diana. From hence we went to the Iſle of Tiber, which lies between the Bridge of Four Heads, and the other Bridge called—where the Church of St. Bartholomew now ſtands, it was heretofore the Temple of Aeſculapius, the God of Phyſick. We went from hence to the Church of St. Cicile, where we ſaw the fine Statue of Marble, made in the ſame manner, lying as when her Body was found: Near to this there is another Church, where in a little Chappel you may ſee a fine Altarpiece, painted by Hanibal Caraſco, and a fine Antick Tomb. From hence we went to the Church of St. Chryſogorio, which is built upon the Ruins of an Hoſpital that Auguſtus Caeſar had made for the uſe of his maim'd Soldiers. Near to this there is another Church called Sancta Tranſlaverie, heretofore an Hoſpital for the uſe before-mentioned. From hence we went to the place where St. Peter was martyrized, where there is now a Church called by his name; there is in it a fine piece of Painting of the tranſfiguration, done by Raphael Ʋrbin: This place was heretofore called the Ganicul • .

Tueſday following we went to St. Peters Church, and obſerved the four Statues of Copper, which ſupport St. Peter's Chair; in which Chair the Popes are uſually ſeated when the ſolemnity of Coronation paſſes on them; the two outward figures repreſent St. Ambroſe and St. Auguſtin, and the two inward St. Cyril and St. Chryſoſtome; on the Right Hand of the Altar you ſee that incomparable fine Statue of Marble made by Gulielmus Dellaporta; we went afterwards underneath the Church into the Vaults where we ſaw Otto the eleventh Emperour of Germany as he was there intomb'd, with the Sepulchre of Carola Queen of Jeruſalem, Cypre, and Armenia; from hence we went into the Pope's Armory, where they ſay are Arms ſufficient for 65000 Men.

We afterwards went to the Chappel, where we ſaw that excellent piece of Painting, which repreſents the Day of Judgment, done by Michael Angelo, who amongſt other things that he had figured to be in Hell, puts in a Cardinal in his Pontificalibus, which was drawn ſo near to the life, that whoever ſaw it knew it to be the very picture of ſuch a Cardinal, an eminent Man then living in Rome, who they report came to ſee the Painting before it was finiſhed, and haſtily ruſhing in at the door, over which Michael Angelo hapned to be then at work upon a Ladder, chanced to throw him down, which to be revenged of, he paints the Cardinal in Hell, whereupon the Cardinal complians to the Pope, who was then Leo X. of the great indignity done him by Michael Angelo, who had placed him amongſt the Devils in Hell; to which the Pope returned this Anſwer, That he indeed was heartily ſorry for it, and could have wiſhed that he had placed him in Purgatory, for there he could have fetched him out; but being once in Hell, there was no redemption. So that the Cardinal remains there to this day.

Friday, we went to the Baths of Anthonio Caracallo, Son to Septimus Severus, from whence were taken all the Pillars that are now in St. Paul's Church, and the Bull of Farneſe before mentioned, together with the two great Marble Veſſels that ſtand in the Piazza Farneſe; theſe Baths, they ſay, had 1500 Rooms in them. In going to theſe Baths, between Mont. Palatin and Mont. Aventin, we ſaw the Circle where the pretty Sibins were raviſhed.

From hence we went to the Church of St. Laurence, being one of the Seven where there is abundance of fine Marble Pillars with other Stones finely Carved, relating to Sacrifices; from whence one may conclude that it had formerly been ſome Heatheniſh Temple: Upon the right and left hand going into the Church, you may ſee two Ancient Tombs of Marble.

We afterwards ſaw the Caſtle of St. Angelo, were the Popes Triple Crown is kept, in which there is planted a great many Braſs Guns, whereof 'tis believed the major part was made of the Braſs taken from the Pantheon, and one of them made out of the Braſs Nails only that were imployed in the Brazen Work of that Temple, ſo vaſt was the quantity of Braſs found there.

From hence we went to the Pallace of Medicis, where we ſaw theſe principal Statues, (viz.) the Rotatore, being a Country Fellow that diſcovered the Conſpiracy of Cataline againſt the Republick of Rome. A Venus made by Cleomenes the Son of Appolodorus of Athens, which heretofore they ſay was an Idol worſhipped in the Rotonda. The Statue of Marſias, who was flaid alive for preſuming to underſtand Muſick as well as Apollo. The Wreſtlers in one intire piece of Marble. Then in the Garden you ſee two great Veſſels of Marble, taken out of the Baths of Diocleſian the Emperor, and fourteen fine ancient Statues, repreſenting the Sons and Daughters of Niobe, that were all put to death by order of Latona, Jupiters Concubine, according to the fiction of the Poets.

From hence we went again to St. Peter's Church, where we ſaw the head of the Spear that, they ſay, pierced our Saviours Side, and a piece of the Croſs, with a Handkerchief that, they ſay, St. Veronnica gave him to wipe the Sweat from his Face, when he was going to Mount Calvar loaded with the Croſs; whereon is to be ſeen plainly the print of a Face which, they ſay, affixed it ſelf ſo to the Handkercief as ſoon as our Saviour had made uſe of it.

Monday the 21th of January we left Rome in order to go to Venice, and lay the firſt night at Rigneava twenty three miles from Rome, the next night we lay at Ternit, twenty eight miles, and upon Wedneſday we arrived at Foligne thirty miles more; from whence on Thurſday wecame to Valcemare twenty eight miles, and the next day to Lauretta thirty two miles, where we ſaw the Holy Houſe, now ſo called, it being formerly (they told us) the proper Manſion Houſe, or Habitation of the Virgin Mary in Nazareth, when the Angel Gabriel ſaluted her with the joyful news of her Conception of our Saviour Chriſt.

It was firſt miraculouſly brought from Nazareth into Dalmatia, and from thence by the Angels carried over the Gulf of Venice, and ſet down in Italy, where it now remains to the great aſtoniſhment of all that ſee it, if they believe the report: All that you ſee of this Holy Houſe is no more than four Walls very unartificially built, of an ordinary ſort of Stone, much like unto our Brick, which four Walls compoſe the four ſides of a little ground Room, almoſt ſquare, which they call the Holy Houſe; but ſome time ſince they have built over it a very fine Church, and have very richly caſed and adorned this Irregular Room with pure fine Marble, curiouſly wrought and carved, much more to be admired than the Holy Houſe it ſelf. In the Holy Houſe there is a Wooden Diſh, which, they told us, the Virgin Mary did uſe to eat or drink in; and the Image of a Woman carved in Wood, with a Child in her Arms, which they take to be the Effigies of the Virgin Mary, with our Saviour: They ſhewed us likewiſe an old Red Pet • icoat, ſuppoſed likewiſe to be what the Virgin Mary, in her life-time, did wear, becauſe it was found upon the Image: There are ſeveral rich Lamps, whereof ten are of pure Gold; and a very rich Cloath of Gold and Silver, beſet with Diamonds and other Precious Stones, for a Covering to the Image.

From hence they conducted us to the Treaſury of the Order of this Holy Houſe, which without doubt is the richeſt in Chriſtendom, for that innumerable quantity of Precious Stones, as Diamonds, Pearls, Rubies, &c. too many to be particularly mentioned, that they have there amaſſed together, likewiſe Veſſels of Gold and Silver in abundance: There is alſo one fine piece of Painting, done by Hannibal Caratio; after this they ſhewed us the Apothecaries Shop, whereof the Pots were all Painted by Raphael Ʋrbin. From Lauretta we went on Saturday the 26th of January to Ancona fifteen miles, where the most remarkable thing is the Triumphal Arch of Trojan upon the Mould, and St. Auguſtin's Church, where there is ſome good painting, done by Pomerancia. It is a great Town well fortified, with Cannon planted as well againſt the Sea, as againſt the Land. From hence we went twenty miles upon the Adriatick Sea ſhore, and lay at Senegaglia, a Town fortified almoſt in a ſquare; heretofore it did belong to the Duke of Ʋrbin, but now it is in the poſſeſſion of the Pope. The next day we went twenty miles more to Dinner at Peſaro, within five miles of this place we went through a Town called Fano, where there is a Triumphal Arch erected to the honour of Caeſar, when he returned victorious over the French. From Peſaro we went 25 miles more, and lay at Rimini, ſtill all along upon the Adriatick Sea ſide. It is a great Town, but very much ruined by an Earthquake, that two years before ſhook down a Spacious Market-place, with the greateſt part of the Buildings about it, which were very ſumptuous; and the beſt part of the Town was thereby deſtroyed, to the terrible amazement of all the Inhabitants, whereof the greateſt part made their eſcape when they firſt perceived the Earth to tremble, and the Streets begin to rock, and by the violence of the concuſſion ready to meet and touch a top, though ſome more careful than prudent, to ſave their goods, were buried with them in the ruine of their Houſes; the greateſt part of which ſtill lies in heaps. The Chappel of St. Anthony, which Laſſel in his Voyage of Italy doth ſay, proved miraculouſly the real preſence in the Sacrament, was likewiſe without any difference ſhaken down with the reſt; ſo that the hiſtorical painting, which ſhould have informed us concerning the Miracle, fell with the Chappel Walls. Near to this there is a large Stone fixed, where they ſay Caeſar made a Speech to his Army. From Rimini, upon Tueſday the 29th. we came to Ravenna, 35 miles, where we ſpent the morning to ſee the Town, and firſt went to the fine Convent of Sancta Vitalle, where we ſaw the Chappel of Galla Placidia, the Daughter of Theodoſius the Great, and Siſter to Arcadia and Honorius, Wife of Conſtantius, and Mother to Valentinianus the Third, all Emperours. Her great Marble Tomb is placed at the upper end of the Chappel▪ And the two great Tombs of Honorius and Valentinianus on each ſide of the Chappel; the two Tombs fixed in the Walls going out of the Chappel; it is believed do acknowledge Arcadius, and the Nurſe of Valentinianus, for their being there erected: After we had ſeen this, we went to the Church, where in going in, we took notice of a Marble Stone in the wall, whereon were ſeveral very Antique Figures, curiouſly engraven, repreſenting a Bull led to the Sacrifice, with the Heatheniſh Prieſts attending: There is likewiſe the Tomb of Juſtinian the Emperour, and over againſt that John the Ninth, Archbiſhop of Ravenna lies: Under one of the Altars you ſee the Tomb of St. Vitalle: Near the Church Door, and in ſeveral places of the Town, ſeveral old Sepulchres are remaining: From hence we went to the Church of St. Maria Maggiore, where there is abundance of fine ancient Marble Pillars, and the Chappel of St. Orcicero, who after he was beheaded, they ſay, carryed his Head from the place of Execution, two hundred paces: We went from this Church to the Rotonda, one of the greateſt pieces of Curioſity in all Italy; it was deſigned by Amalaſunta, only Daughter to Theodoric, King of the Goths, for a Tomb for her Father, and in the Year 526, was accordingly built; a little before his death he cauſed a Pope and two famous Councellors to be put to death: The building is round, but the Curioſity is in the Roof, which is one intire Stone, near four foot thick, and thirty five foot over, or in the Diameter that covers the whole Building, being concav'd like unto a Buckle; it is to the the admiration of all that ſee it queſtioned, how ſuch a Stone could be got out of a Quarry, brought thither, and placed as it is. The Vaſs that this King was put in, is of Porphyry, and was placed upon the top of this great Stone in the middle, having round about the ſides twelve Statues, repreſenting the Twelve Apoſtles; but at the ſiege of Ravenna, it was ſhot down, and is now to be ſeen in the Convent of the Zocollanties, fixed in a Wall, conveyed thither by ſome of the Town in the Year of our Lord 1564. We went next to the Church of the Polonaries, ſupported by four and twenty fine Marble Pillars very Antique; and in the Piazza or Market-place, there are two more, whereon the Statues of St. Vitelle and St. Apollinare, Protectors of the City, do now ſtand.

Wedneſday, the 30th. of January, we left Ravenna, and went to Fienza, 20. miles, here it is they make the fine Earhen Ware; the next day we came to Bologne, where we ſaw a great many fine Churches and Convents, to wit, that of St. John in the Mount, in which there is very good painting, eſpecially one piece made for St. Cicilia by Raphael Ʋrbin, and another fine piece done by Hannibal Caratio. In the Convent of St. Dominico, there is behind the great Altar, a fine piece, done by Machael Angelo: The Tomb of St. Dominic is very fine; in the Quire you ſee the Hiſtory of the Old and New Teſtament, Carved in Wood, very curiouſly done by Franck. Damiano, a Lay Brother, and a Lamp of Silver, ſent to them from the Indians about thirty years ago; they ſhewed us St. Dominic's Chamber for a great Curioſity. From hence we went and ſaw the Silk Mills, which was well worth our trouble, and one or two Pallaces, and then we went to the fine Gallary of Aldovandino.

Monday, the 4th. of February, we went from Bologne to Modene 20 miles, where within four miles of that Town, near to the Great Road, is ſcituated a ſtrong place called Ʋrbin the Eighths Fort; it is a ſquare, fortified with Ravelins and Demilunes, the beſt regular Fortification that I had then ſeen in Italy: The Town of Modene is inconſiderable, the Fortifications of it are old and decayed, but the Citadal may be taken notice of: We ſaw the Duke and his Pallace, in which there is nothing more remarkable than the Collection of Pictures.

Tueſday we went from Modene, and lay eighteen miles off at a little Town, called Cento, and from thence to Ferrara eighteen miles, where coming into Town you may take notice of a Fort, which ſeem'd to me to be a Pentagone very well fortified; in the Town is the Caſtello, ſurrounded with deep Ditches of Water; here the Popes Legate recides: They ſhewed us a fine Colomn not finiſhed▪ whereon is to be placed the Statue of the Pope, that at preſent ſtands hard by the Domo, which is a very old Church. The Benedictins is a fine Monaſtery, where we ſaw the Tomb of Arioſte the great Poet, and Author of Orlands Furioſo. Over againſt the Domo, you may take notice of two Statues, repreſenting two Brothers, one a Duke the other a Marqueſs, of the Houſe of Eſte; one of them delighted much in ſporting and playing tricks, and had a Houſe built for that purpoſe, but now out of uſe. It became afterwards a Proverb, when any one would be playing the Fool, to ſay, (il Fratello del Duca è morto) which is as much as to ſay (leave off Fooling.)

Thurſday following we went to Dinner to Ravigo, the firſt Town in that Road that belongs to the Venetians, 22 miles from Ferrara, where we paſſed the River Poe, and the White Channel; after Dinner we went 15 miles more, to a Town called Mont Selevie; not far from hence we paſſed the River Adige; and a Friday morning we came to Padoue, ten miles, from whence the ſame day we took Bark, and arrived at Venice the eighth day of February, where we ſtaid three weeks to ſee the Town; and the moſt remarkable thing there is, the Arſenal, in which there is Arms for four hundred thouſand men; there is a very great ſtore of Cannon and other inſtruments of War: Their Ports do abound in Gallies, Galliots, and Men of War: We went into the Bucentore, a certain Veſſel that the Doge or Duke of Venice goes in when he performs the Matrimonial Ceremony betwixt Himſelf and the Sea, by throwing in a Gold Ring: We ſaw the private Armory, and the Treaſury, which indeed is not to be admired after having ſeen the Treaſure of Lauretta: We went afterwards to the Doge's Pallace and the Councel Chamber, where there is good Painting; the Piazza or Place of St. Mark, is very well worth ones particular notice, as alſo St. Mark's Church, where you ſee the four fine Horſes of Braſs, brought from Conſtantinople, and the two great Pillars of Marble near the Water-ſide: The Baſrelief, upon the ſide of a little Building joyning to the Steeple of St. Mark's Church is very well worth the taking notice of; then we went up to the top of the Steeple, from whence we had a fair proſpect over all Venice, which, I believe, contains more buildings than Rome; but that which is chiefly to be admired, is its Scituation and Building in the Sea, ſo that one may go by Water and by Land almoſt through every Street of this vaſt City. There is two Canals or Ports, by which the biggeſt Ships may go in and out; the one is called Porto Lydo, the other Malomoca: After we had gone round the City by Sea, and viewed it after that manner, we took our leaves of it, and went again to Padoue, where we arrived the firſt of March; we ſaw the Schools of Phyſick, Divinity and Law, &c. called the Bo, and the Tomb of Antinor, Founder of Padoue, who lived fifteen hundred years before our Saviour Chriſt, upon Earth, it is erected at the Corner of a Street; then we went to the Church of St. Anthony, where we ſaw the fine Tomb of Alexander Contarini, General of the Venetians, and the Tomb of St. Anthony, which is adorned with ſeveral fine Marble Figures, repreſenting the Miracles wrought by him in his lifetime and about twenty ſeven great Silver Lamps. In the Quoire of the ſame Church there is about twelve pieces of Caſt Braſs, ſo curiouſly wrought with all ſorts of Figures, and other things neceſſary to the deſign, that it gives you an Hiſtorical Account of ſeveral paſſages in the Old Teſtament, and ſo much to the Life, that I cannot forbear to make mention of one, which is the Story of Sampſon and the Philiſtins, when he deſtroyed ſo many of them by carcying away the Pillars of the Houſe, and letting the Houſe fall wherein they were; it is ſo artificially done, that you will hardly believe your eyes, but take the whole Fabrick to be effectually falling down. In the Cloyſters to the ſame Church, there is a little Black Marble Stone that covers the Bowels of the Old Duke of Norfolk, Father to the ſuppoſed Mad Duke that we ſaw confined at Padoue: Right before this Church ſtands the Statue of Gatta Mela, General of the Venetians, in Braſs. From hence we went to the Church of St. Juſtin, where we ſaw the Tomb of St. Luke, much like unto an old wooden Cheſt, inchaſed with Iron; the Tomb of S. Matthias, over againſt it on the other ſide of the Church, and under the great Altar, the Tomb of St. Juſtin; at the upper end of the Quire there is a fine piece of Painting, done by Paul Veroneſe. To this Church belongs a Convent, eſteemed the fineſt in Italy. Near to the Pallace of the Great Captain, we ſaw the great Hall, called Pallagio di Regione, and that remarkable Stone in it, called Lapis opprobrii, whereon if any one comes and claps down his Breech, three times together, he ſhall never be troubled, whilſt he lives, for debt, but then he is for ever after defamed, and himſelf and Family more ruined in their Reputation and Honour, than if they had died in Priſon for Debt. We went from hence to the place where they Anatomize and Diſſect the Bodys of Men and Women, which is ſo conveniently built, that although it is much leſs than an ordinary Chamber, yet there is room enough with Seats for two or three hundred Spectators.

Sunday, the 3d. day of March, we went from Padoue to Vicenze 18 miles, where about a mile out of Town we ſaw a pretty Pallace, called the Rotonda; it is a very fine Proſpect and belongs to the Marqueſs Martio Capra; we alſo ſaw the Garden and Labyrinth of Conte Valinerana, the Amphitheatre and Triumphal Arch of Poladio, with what elſe was conſiderable. Tueſday the 5th we went thirty miles more, and came to Dinner at Verona, where the fineſt Tombs, and the richeſt that ever I ſaw of Marble, are there erected to the honour of the Family of the Scaligeres, who were formerly Maſters of this Town; then we went to the Amphitheatre, which is much like to that in Rome, but a more intire thing within, for the Spectators Seats or Places which are the Circular Degrees or Steps within ſide remain all whole, the outſide is much more ruined than that in Rome. From hence we went to Conte Juſte's Garden, where you have a proſpect of the whole Town; I took notice of the Pine Trees in the Garden, which are the fineſt I ever ſaw. From this Garden we went to St. George's Church, where we ſaw two pieces of Painting, very much eſteemed, done by Paul Veroncſe: It is thought that this Town is the biggeſt (except Venice) that belongs to the Venetians; its ſcituation is upon the River Adige.

Wedneſday, the 6th. we left this place and went to Mamoue 24 miles, the Duke thereof and Dutcheſs his Wife, are both of the Family of Gonzaga: We ſaw the Town and the Dukes Pallace, but nothing worth remark in either▪ for about forty years ago it was plundered by the Germans, yet ſomething remains in the Cloſet of Natural Curioſities worth taking notice of, to wit, two or three Children Mummies, one of them like to a Satyr, the other two very Monſtrous, there being but two Bodys, but to each Body Members for two Children; one of theſe Children was a Male, the other a Female very diſcernable: There was likewiſe a Man Mummy, he being about 360 years ago, a very Tyrannick Governour of this place, was killed, and thus preſerved for a deteſtable ſpectacle to after Ages. Of ſeveral Cockatrices I had ſeen in our Travels, the biggeſt was in this place. The little Hall painted by Gulio Romano of the Trojan Hiſtory is worth taking notice of. The Town of Mantoue is well fortified by Nature as well as by Art. Ver •• a, the place I made mention of before this, is likewiſe ſtrongly fortied with thick Walls and deep Ditches. About five miles from Mantoue, in the road to Breſcia, there is a fine Palace, belonging to this Duke, called La Fontalla. The ſame day being the ſeventh, we arrived at Breſcia 40 miles, riding all the way through a very delightful Country. The Town of Breſcia is ſtrong, having good Walls and Ditches. The Caſtle that ſtands upon a little Hill has a great many good Cannon in it, and commands the Town. About 160 years ago the French were Maſters of it, who with the aſſiſtance of ſome forces from Bologn made a ſtrong ſally upon the Town, plundering, and putting all to the Sword; ever ſince which time they have remained in Peace. The Town-Houſe was one of the fineſt buildings in all theſe parts, but by an accident burnt the remains of it is worth one's regard. The ninth we went from hence to Bergamo 30 miles, where we lay that night, the next morning, being Sunday the 10th we went into the Town, which is ſcituated on a Hill, and well fortified: This is one of the fineſt proſpects of Italy, we ſaw the Domo, and in it the Sepulchre of Bartholomew Collione, late Patron of the Town; there are four fine pieces kept lockt up, ſome call it Painting, but others affirm it to be all but Wood Inlaid, which makes the Pieces the more Curious.

After Dinner, the ſame day, we went to Le Fournaiſe 16 miles, where we lay that night; it is but a Village, and lies upon the River Adda. The next day we rode 14 miles upon the ſame Riverſide, and came to Millan the 14th of March; and firſt of all we went to St. Paul's Church, and to that of St. Ceiſ • , in both which there is good Pai • ting, cheifly in this laſt, where in the 〈◊〉 there is a fine piece done by R • phael Ʋrbin. In the Church of St. 〈◊〉 they ſhew you a Brazen Serpent, whereof the Head and Tail, they tell you was part of that Serpent that Moſes cauſed the Children of Iſrael to ſet up for a remedy againſt the plague of biting Serpents: The Body of St. Ambroſe lies under the Great Altar. In the Garden of this Convent they ſhew you a Chappel, where they ſay St. Auguſtin was converted to the Chriſtian Faith, and another Chappel, where they ſay he was Baptized. From hence we went to the Convent of St. Victoir, where there is very good painting: Theſe two laſt mentioned are eſteemed the fineſt Convents in Italy; then we went to the Church of St. Euſtorgian, where they pretend to ſhew the Tomb of the Three Kings that came to worſhip our Saviour in Bethlehem, and the Sepulchre of St. Peter, who they ſay was martyrized in a Wood betwixt Millan and Pavie. Then we went to the Church of St. Laurence, built after the model of St. Sophie in Conſtantinople; it was formerly the Palace of Maximilian the Emperour, there remains ſixteen of the old Pillars next the ſtreet, which I looked upon to be the greateſt piece of Antiquity of the whole Town; and in the Church there is nothing but the Tomb of Placidia, Daughter to Honorius the Emperour that is worth your notice▪ The Domo or Cathedral Church is the fineſt Fabrick in Millan, and if one had a month to ſpend there, one might ſee it every day, and yet find ſomething to pleaſe ones Curioſity, that one had not ſeen, or atleaſt taken notice of before, notwithſtanding it is not finiſhed, nor do I believe ever will be. There is about ſix hundred Marble Pillars belonging to the Church, and each Pillar they ſay coſt at leaſt One Thouſand Crowns; all the Walls of the Church are likewiſe of Marble: In a little Chappel, under ground, we ſaw the body of St. Charles covered with Cryſtal, very tranſparent, lying in his Robes, the ſame he wore when he was Archbiſhop of that place, his Face, which looked black and rotteniſh, had no covering, but lies always expoſed to view; the Cryſtal Caſe preſerving it from Cobwebs, duſt and other filth. From the top of the Church we took a view of the Town, which is near as big as London within the Walls; we ſaw the great Hoſpital, the Lazaretto or Peſthouſe, both well worth taking notice of. In the Cabinet of Settali, one of their their Canons there is a great many curioſities both Natural and Artificial; what I moſt admired was three large Unicorns Horns, which I never ſaw in any place before, nor till then did I believe there could be any ſuch thing in nature, but the Maſter of the Cabinet was ſtrongly of the opinion that they did belong to, and were taken from Fiſh, and that there was never any ſuch Beaſt ſeen to have ſuch a Horn, but that it was a vulgar error; each Horn was about ſix foot long, twiſting regularly from the root upwards, but falling from the Twiſt gradually as it drew up to the ſpear or point, which was very ſharp: The lower part or root of the Horn being about ten or twelve inches circumference, which declining gradually till it comes to a ſpear a top, renders it a very ſtrong and formidable weapon. The Horn is all very white; the whole Cabinet is full of curious things, yet I think that Cabinet we ſaw at Lyons in France does far excel it. From hence we went to the Caſtle, it is a very regular Exagon, with half moons; it is eſteemed one of the compleateſt pieces of fortification in all Italy, and of great ſtrength, upon every one of the Baſtions is planted twelve pieces of Cannon; there is a Garriſon in it of about 500 Soldiers with their Wives and Children▪ After we had ſeen the Caſtle, we went to a Palace of the Counteſs of Smione, about a mile and a half out of Millan, where amongſt other remarkable things, you may take notice of the Echo, which was the beſt I ever heard. There is a very ſtrong wall round Millan, which is ſaid to be ten miles; the Library there is worth ſeeing.

From this place we came the 13th to a little Village called Buffe •• lo 20 miles, it lies upon Navillio, a ſmall River, and from thence the 14th to Vercelle 20 miles more: Then we came to the River Tiſſino 4 miles, and ſo to Novarra 6 miles; this is the ſtrongeſt place upon the Frontiers of Savoy that belongs to the Milaneſes: From hence we came to Vercelli 10 miles; this place belongs to the Duke of Savoy, and is the firſt place of ſtrength, near the Frontiers of the Milaneſes; One ſide of the Town is regularly fortified with Baſtions and Half Moons, hardly finiſhed; on the North part of the Town the fortifications are irregular, there being a great deal of the old walls ſtill remaining, however the Town is very ſtrong. The 15th we came to Dinner to Ciliana or Sian 17 miles; and from thence to Chivas 10 miles, where we lay that night at the Poſthouſe, from whence the next day, being Saturday the 16th. of March, we came to Turin 12 miles. The next day, Sunday, we went to Pignerol 16 miles; it is a ſtrong Town, which the French King about 45 years ago took from the Doke of Savoy. The Cittadel wherein Monſieur Fouket, thatgreat Miniſter is confined, is a very ſtrong place, and like to be much ſtronger if they continue to carry on the work of their fortifications. The Town it ſelf is likewiſe very well fortified, where at the Gate going in they obliged us to leave our Arms, and to take a Soldier to wait upon us to the Governour for leave to ſee the Town and Cittadel, which was ſoon granted us. This place has a very great awe upon the Duke of Savoy, the French being able by means thereof at their pleaſure to make an inroad upon that Dukedom.

From Pignerol we came to Villiane the Monday following 12 miles, and a bad way over the Mountains; near to this Town we paſſed betwixt two ſmall Lakes, called by the Name of the Town▪ From this place we went eight miles farther, and came to Buſolino, the next day to Novaleſe ſix miles, which is the foot of the Mountains on the ſide of Piedmont. From Novaleze, in the aſcent of the Alpes, we came to la Ferier two long miles, from thence to the great Croſs two more, which is the leaſt half to the top of Mount Senis; from the great Croſs we went five miles upon a Plain, which brought us to the Ra • aſſe (that is) the place where we took Sledges, on which we ſlid all upon Snow from the top of the Mountain to the foot towards France in ſo little time, that I forbear here to mention, which which was two miles more, and that brought us to Lanebourg, from Lanebourg to Bremont two leagues, where we lay on Tueſday night; from thence we went to St. Michell five leagues, and ſo to la Chambre four leagues, all upon the River Arch. Thurſday we came to Maltaverne ſix leagues, and then to Montmillian two leagues, and ſo to Chambrey two great leagues more. On Friday we came to Remile five leagues, where we lay▪ From thence we came on Saturday the 23th. of March, new ſtile, to Geneve ſeven leagues, where after we had reſted our ſelves for ſome time, we returned for France by the way of way of Lyons • nd then taking another road different •• om what we travelled before, in ſome ſhort time arrived at Paris, where we ſtay'd about a month, and then ſet forward for England, to which place we returned after four years travl in France, Italy, Swiſſerland, and through ſome of the Spaniſh Territories; but then ſtay'd not long before a voyage into France was again propoſed, with which you was pleaſed to comply, and ſo paſſed the following Winter at Mompellier, going another way through France, than the way you had gone before▪ from whence the next Summer, by another road we returned again to Paris, where I was compelled to leave you. And the ſame time humbly take leave to Conclude this ſhort and rude Journal of your Travels in Italy.